It all began back in February when I was demoing the textured stitch for the Easy Going Knit Sweater. The Easy Going Loom Knit Hat was a collaboration in the truest sense of the word. Blocking ensures you get a perfect square and evens out your stitches.My heart is bursting with joy! There’s a new pattern out there, but it’s not just any old pattern. Weave in ends.īlock to a 6” (15.25 cm) square. Ĭut tail and pull through last loop to fasten off. The last 6 rows vary in their decrease from above. Row 62: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 61: K1, ssk, yo, ssk, knit to end of row. Row 60: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 58: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 57: K1, ssk, yo, ssk, knit to end of row. Row 56: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 54: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 53: K1, ssk, yo, ssk, knit to end of row. Row 52: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 50: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 49: K1, ssk, yo, ssk, knit to end of row. Row 48: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 46: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 45: K1, ssk, yo, ssk, knit to end of row. Row 44: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 42: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 41: K1, ssk, yo, ssk, knit to end of row. Row 40: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 38: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Row 37: K1, ssk, yo, ssk, knit to end of row. Row 36: P1, p2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, p2. Ssp move the left stitch onto the right and purl both stitches together.Ssk move the left stitch onto the right and knit both stitches together.K2tog move the right stitch onto the left and knit both stitches together.P2tog move the right stitch onto the left and purl both stitches together.Flat Yarnover this peg and continue with the row. Next move the second stitch over one peg to create an empty peg. Then move the stitch on the first peg over one to the empty peg. To do this, work the first 2 pegs as listed. This pattern calls for you to increase AFTER the first two stitches in the row. In this sample a Flat YO is used instead. If an Ewrap YO is used, it leaves the twist in the Ewrapped stitch and it partially blocks the eyelet making the hole appear small to avoid this you must untwist the Ewrap YO before working it on the next row. YO – Yarnover Increase: Place the working yarn in front of the peg and move on the next peg to make a Flat YO. Decrease names are written for right handed, however for left handed knitters please see video for demonstration if needed. Or choose peg 1 to be on LEFT if you are left handed and start Purl on left. Choose Peg 1 to be on the RIGHT for right handed knitters to start with Purl stitch. Rows 20-22 are worked as written.ĭouble Ewrap cast on is recommended working in the direction of peg 1. *In Row 19 continue to rep from * to last 5 sts then K5. If you would like to make a larger square, simply continue the 4-row repeat (Rows 19-22*) until you reach your desired size. This square is smaller in size than a standard dishcloth because it is intended to be used as part of another design. Loom: ⅜” small gauge (SG) loom with at least 38 pegs.įor a refresher on loom knitting basics see the blog posts below to get started:ġ9 sts x 37 rows = 4” x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in eyelet pattern (after blocking) Yarn Bee Fundamental Cotton (164 yds./3.5 oz., 150 m/100 g) 1 ball needed. Using these links cost you nothing, but helps support GKK.) (Materials list may contain affiliate links to products I used to make this project.
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